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A
view of Vatican City. |
There is a lot
of history to the Vatican City, one of the best known spiritual centres
in the entire world, and it is just so for many reasons. It is almost
2,000 years old, the home of the Pope, and the centre of the Catholic
Church. It is also its own sovereign state.
It has survived time, war, and countless visitors on pilgrimages
and sightseeing tours. The smallest independent state in the world
(less than one half a square kilometre or about one-third of a square
mile and home to about 900 people) even has its own website.
HISTORY
The story of
the Vatican begins in the first century, when Caligula Caesar began
construction of the Circus
of Nero (later to be finished by Emperor Nero) in an area
known as Ager Vaticanus, near the Tiber River. At that time,
the area lay outside the city of Rome,
and was the site of many a spectacle, including the first state organized
martyrdom of Christians in the first century. It is commonly believed
that it is here that St. Peter (the apostle who proclaimed Christ
was the Messiah and Son of God) was martyred. A monument was placed
over his tomb, and Pope Anacletus (77 - 88) built a small shrine
on the very same site. In 312, Emperor Constantine became the first
Christian ruler of Rome, and in 324, commissioned St.
Peter's Basilica on the grounds where the shrine of Anacletus
stood. Until the new church was consecrated, this area was largely
unpopulated, though widely considered sacred.
The Vatican,
which takes its name from Mons Vaticanus (Vatican Hill), is
home to the Pope, leader of the Catholic faith. Over the centuries,
many have been chosen to hold this seat, and countless tales of honour
and intrigue have been born within the Vatican walls. There is even
a legend of a woman becoming pope (Pope Joan) in the 9th century.
It is said the highly educated Englishman John of Mainz (855-857)
was actually a woman in disguise. She was revealed when she was discovered
to be pregnant, and died shortly after giving birth. The Catholic
Church has never recognized these rumours, likely fabricated by chronicler
Martin of Troppau.
Vatican City
is administered by the Holy See, which has aided and observed the
Vatican in both size and influence. But it wasn't until the rule
of Pope Symmachus (498 - 514) that the Vatican became the residence
of future popes. Prior to Pope Symmachus, the Vatican was only a
secondary residence, the main home being the Palace
of San Giovanni in Laterano, whose adjoining basilica is
the oldest of the five ancient basilicas
found around Rome. The palace is the former home of the Lateranus
family, advisers for the leaders of the Empire. Constantine took
the palace for the Church and a residence for the popes early in
the 4th century.
In 846, the city
was enclosed in a protective wall which surrounded the entire grounds
of the Vatican City. Known as the Leonine
Walls, they were erected by Pope Leo (440 - 461) to defend
against the Saracen invasion of Europe.
Between 1145
and 1153, Eugenius III served in the position of Pope, even though
he was only abbot of a small monastery near Rome at the time of his
election.Constant threats against the authority of the church and
an atmosphere of consistent violence led him to build a new and stronger
fortified palace, later enlarged by Innocent III (1198 - 1216). After
his death in 1153, Pope Eugenius III was buried in the Vatican, and
his tomb is believed to have remarkable restorative and healing power.
In 1277, a walled passageway
was built, linking the palace with Castel
Saint Angelo, to be used as an escape route for the papacy during the
many invasions of Rome. So turbulent was this era, that between 1309 and 1378,
the papacy was driven to leave the Holy City, taking up permanent residence
in the Papal State of Avignon,
France, where
recently elected Pope Clement V (1305 - 1314) had a friend in King Philip IV.
The papacy would remain in exile until Pope Gregory XI (1370 - 1378) returned
it to Italy. Once
again, the pope would live at the Vatican, but the power of the church was marred
by political conflict between the original home of the papacy and France (their
home in exile) adding pressure to the election of future popes.
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Maderno's fountain outside the basilica. |
By the mid-15th century,
St. Peter's Basilica was in poor states, and under the leadership of Pope Nicholas
V (1447 - 1455) underwent extensive renovations. Not only was the basilica restored,
in 1451 it was also expanded. Pope Nicholas V completely tore down some sections
to include the Cortile Dei Pappagalli, and make more room for the great
collection that is now the Vatican
Library. By the year 2000, records estimate the number of collected
volumes totaled almost two million works, with another 6,000 being added each
year, mostly by donation. Rebuilding of the Vatican was pre-empted by the death
of Nicholas V in 1455, and would not begin again until 1506.
Sixtus IV (1471
- 1484) commissioned many great works by popular artists of the day,
now displayed throughout the public areas of the Vatican
Museums.
Pope Innocent VIII (1484
- 1492) ordered architect and painter Donato Bramante to undertake the renovation
of Villa Belvedere into an art gallery. It is now home to many sculptures
collected by subsequent Pope Julius II. Bramante also added a spiral staircase
large and wide enough for horses to ascend with mounted riders, and connected
the pavilion to the Sistine
Chapel and Vatican
Palace.
The 16th century
saw the Vatican install its own millitary, a unit of which was the
still-present Swiss Guards, to ward off continuing threat of foreign
invasion. To this day, the guard still employs its traditional weapon,
a 15th century pike, and wears a recognizeable Renaissance revival
uniform (not designed by Michelangelo, contrary to popular opinion).
These highly trained soldiers have a range of duties, from guarding
the entrances to the Apostolic Palace to choir to soccer matches
against other Vatican teams such as the Vatican Security Corps.
1508 brought
the master Michelangelo to the Eternal City, painting many famous
frescoes, including the Sistine Chapel ceiling (shortly after completing
the famous sculpture of David in Florence).
In 1546, the legendary artist became chief architect to St. Peter's
Basilica, but only lived long enough to see it finished as far as
the base of the dome he designed. The dome was finally completed
in 1590 by Giacomo Della Porta.
A 1585 modification
would change visitors first impression of St. Peter's forever, when
the ancient and mysterious obelisk,
was moved to the centre of St.
Peter's Square and topped with a large cross, said to contain
a fragment of the True Cross (the cross of the crucifixtion), found
by St. Helena, mother of Emperor Constantine.
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The
ancient obelisk. |
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The last major
restorations and construction on St. Peter's Basilica were finally
completed during the 17th century, under the direction of Pontiff
Paul V.
The papacy would lose its
hard-won political power again in 1798, when the city of Rome fell under the
rule of Napoleon. Pope Pius VI (1775 - 1799) would lead the church from France
until 1815, when Italy divided under the Congress of Vienna.
The Italian
unification of 1861 brought the Papal States (an area of central
Italy controlled by the Vatican) under the rule of the United Kingdom
of Italy. Pope Pius IX retired within the walls of the Vatican as
protest against a secular government, and from this time on, the
Vatican City would rule only the city state itself.
In 1870, Rome
was annexed during the unification of Italy, and became the nation's
capital, furthering the conflict between the so called "prisoner"
popes and the Italian government. Resolution was reached in 1929,
when Mussolini signed the Lateran Treaty with Pius XI (1922 - 1939),
granting the papacy full sovereignty over the city, while maintaining
public services and protection provided by Italy. In total, three
treaties were signed on Feb. 11, 1929, one of which also made Roman
Catholicism the official religion of Italy.
The 20th century
brought many changes to the Vatican, including the addition of new
art galleries in 1932 and 1973.
Toward the middle
of the 20th century, a remarkable discovery was made beneath the
altar dedicated to St. Peter (located under the High Altar of the
basilica) in the form of a burial chamber in which a skeleton had
been interred with special honours. On Dec. 23, 1950, Pope Pius XII
(1939 - 1958) told the world that the remains of St. Peter himself
had been found. The popular theory is that after his crucifixion,
during which St. Peter was hung upside down by request, his feet
were cut off to remove him from the cross. The remains found under
the church are missing its feet and are believed to be of the same
age as St. Peter at the time of crucifixion. There was even a piece
of plaster found with the remains that read "Peter is within".
The year 2000
brought a new museum entrance and a staircase constructed by Michelangelo
Simonetti in late 18th century became an exit (it was formerly an
entrance).
Today, the Vatican
City boasts a non-commercial economy, based primarily around annual
contributions from Roman Catholics (known as Peter's Pence), however
there is also considerable income derived from tourist mementoes,
admission fees to the various exhibits and museums, and the sale
of postage stamps (it has become quite popular to mail post cards
from the Vatican for the unique postage and stamps), and over the
years the Holy See has acquired many investments and real estate.
CLIMATE
The Vatican's weather is
Rome's weather. The spring is usually somewhat wet, with temperatures settling
around 18ºC (around 65ºF). The benefit of spring is that the countryside is
just beginning to bloom and the lines for attractions are short.
The summer months
(between May and September) are hot, with temperatures averaging
between 25ºC and 35ºC (between 80°F and 90°F). Not surprisingly,
this is the height of tourist season and the cities are crowded.
Late in the season, warm summer winds can raise the index to almost
40ºC (around 104ºF).
Fall is often
the best time to visit the Vatican, as the days have plenty of sun
but are not too hot, and tourist attractions are less crowded. This
pleasant weather continues through the end of November, which lends
itself well to sightseeing, and much of the surrounding region is
in bloom.
As the winter
months set in, rain usually follows, but there are many sunny days.
SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS
Of the many things to see
in the Vatican City (See
the map, right click to zoom in), perhaps the most well known are the
Sistine Chapel (with its famous Michelangelo frescoed ceiling), and St. Peter's
Basilica, the great domed church sometimes thought to be the entirety of the
Vatican, but there is much more to the City State than what is popularly known.
There are the ruins of the legendary wall
that borders the city, art galleries, an Ethiopian Seminary, a historic civil
administration building, a post office, a few chapels, museums,
monuments and towers. And, of course, there is St.
Peter's Square, through which all who wish to enter must pass.
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A
slow day at St. Peter's Square. |
St. Peter's
Square and Basilica
St. Peter's Square (Piazza San Pietro) was laid out in the mid-17th century
(1656 - 1667) by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Located in front of St. Peter's Basilica,
the square was constructed as a public location for the faithful to worship.
In the very centre of the square is an Egyptian obelisk, rising 40 m (131 ft.),
and dating back to the 13th century BC. The obelisk was brought to Rome from
Heliopolis (in ancient Egypt) by Emperor Caligula in 37 AD, and was originally
a focal point for the Circus of Nero, not far from the basilica.
The obelisk once
sported a bronze globe reputedly holding the ashes of Julius Caesar,
which were moved to the Capitoline
Museums when the obelisk came to its present home in the
square, and the newly-added cross at the top is said to contain a
fragment of the True Cross. To the north of the obelisk is Carlo
Maderno's fountain crafted in 1611-12. A second fountain, found on
the south side, was designed by Bernini in 1675 to match the first,
framing the entrance to St. Peter's Basilica.
St. Peter's Basilica started
construction early in the 4th century by the Christian Emperor Constantine on
the burial site of St. Peter (found beneath the High Altar of the current basilica),
who is considered the first pope. Since then, many popes have been buried in
and around the church. Sporting the largest dome in the world, and with room
for more than 60,000 worshippers, it is also the largest church in the world.
The current building was constructed over a period of about 120 years, beginning
in 1506. Michelangelo designed the world renowned dome after Florence's Duomo,
as well as much of the main church, and would go on to paint many revered scenes
within, plus find time to sculpt a few of the masterpieces found here, most
notably the Pietà.
Michelangelo's Pietà, carved
between 1498 - 1499, is currently protected by a sheet of bullet-proof glass
after it was attacked in 1972 by sledgehammer-wielding tourist during a Sunday
mass, breaking her arm, taking a chunk out of her nose and chipping her eyelid.
Originally sculpted as the funeral monument for the French cardinal Jean De
Billheres, the Pietà was moved to its current home in St. Peter's Basilica in
the 18th century. The masterwork depicts the body of Christ in the arms of his
mother, and is truly one of a kind. There is much debate over the representation
of the Virgin Mother, in that she is presented as being very young—younger,
in fact, than the body of Christ she holds.
Many other wonders
can be found within the walls of St. Peter's. There are monuments
to various popes, saints and famous historical figures leading to
the altar of St. Sebastian. Of the more impressive works is Arnolfo
di Cambio's 13th century statue of St.
Peter Enthroned, famous for its feet being worn down from
centuries of visitors rubbing and kissing them, and a 30-m (90-ft.)
tall baldachin (canopy) designed by Bernini resting above the main
altar (above the tomb of St. Peter), the bronze for which is said
to have come from the Pantheon
(circa 27 BC) itself. But at the top of the list for worshippers
are the holy relics. Most importantly among these relics, the basilica
is in possession of what are believed to be the last remaining fragments
of the True Cross, on which Christ was crucified. These fragments
are only on display during Holy Week (the week preceding Easter Sunday).
Without fail, visitors should
experience the view from Michelangelo's famous dome, measuring 42.3 m (138.8
ft.) in diameter (on the inside), and is 120 m (393.7 ft.) above the floor (totalling
136.57 m or 448.5 ft. from the floor to the top of the cross adorning the dome).
From its overwhelming size to its breathtaking views, the dome of St. Peter's
represents architectural genius at its finest. In the early 1700s, however,
the dome began to crack, so four rings were installed to prevent further deterioration.
The rings can be viewed when climbing the spiral stairs to the observation level.
As a masterpiece, the dome is almost as famous as the Sistine Chapel.
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The
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Sistine Chapel
Construction of the Sistine
Chapel began in 1368, with major restorative work undertaken
in the late 15th century. The most popular artists of the Renaissance
worked on creating the majesty of Cappella Sistina, but the
best known are without doubt the frescoes of Michelangelo. In 1999,
20 years of official efforts to restore the precious paintings were
completed, employing a new solvent to clean away centuries of pollution
and build up. A special air-filtration system was also installed
so the restoration efforts would last longer. The system removes
much of the pollution brought into the chapel by millions of visitors
and local traffic. The result is deep and vibrant colour not seen
since Michelangelo completed his work.
The Sistine Chapel
is also the place where new popes are elected. Contained within the
chapel, the Room
of Tears is where the newly elected pontiff contemplates
the nature of his new position, chooses his papal name, and dons
his cassock for the first time. Three holy robes are hung in the
room, one small, one medium and one large, and the new pope wears
the one that fits best. The door to the Room of Tears can be seen
upon touring the chapel.
Vatican Palace
Continually remodeled and developed by Catholic leaders over many centuries,
the various buildings that make up the Vatican Palace were connected in the
16th century under the direction of Pope Julius II (1503 - 1513). The most notable
aspect of the palace complex may be the varied architectural styles employed
by different popes at different times. The more than 1,000 rooms that make up
the Palace include not only the papal apartments, where the pope actually lives,
but also the government offices for the Catholic Church, many chapels (including
the famous Sistine Chapel), the Vatican Library and the Vatican Museums.
Vatican Museums
The Vatican
Museums consist of 10 museums, making it a collection that can take
days to view. Over the centuries, successive popes have grown increasingly interested
in collecting rare works of art, making the collection one of, if not the largest
and richest collection in the world. State of the art security and round-the-clock
staff, including about one hundred plain clothes security officers wandering
around as tourists, have meant that this collection has never had a theft. For
visitors, the museum experience is unique from the start. Upon entering the
Viale Vaticano, one can choose either a ride up an elevator or take a
truly unusual double spiral staircase (one set of stairs goes up, the other
goes down) leading to a collection of mosaics on Vatican Hill. Continuing on,
visitors can view the sarcophagi of Constantine's mother Constanza and his daughter,
Saint Helena. Keep walking and guests come upon one of the most impressive Egyptian
exhibits in all of Europe, ancient manuscripts and sculptures, and then, eventually,
find their way to the Sistine Chapel.
Vatican Treasury
Though not commonly considered part of the museums, the Vatican
Treasury itself can be toured, and many of its chalices,
reliquaries, and artefacts can be seen. Over the centuries, the treasury
has grown immensely because of donations from popes, cardinals, emperors,
kings and countless worshipers. Many artefacts date as far back as
the 4th century rule of Constantine.
Vatican Library
The Vatican
Library's collection began with writings and documents that belonged
to, and were treasured by early popes, and the collection expanded under the
papacy of Nicholas V (1447-55). During this time, some 1,500 works were gathered
from all corners of Europe and the east, bringing the total number of volumes
to over 1,800. Over the centuries, the library collection has increased considerably,
and is now divided into various sections, including the Latin and Greek Libraries,
the Secret Library (for precious manuscripts not generally accessible by the
public), and the Pontifical Library (of registries and archives). During the
rule of Pope Paul V (1605 - 1621) in the 17th century, the library collection
was increased and again restructured. Archival documents were removed from the
site all together, creating the Secret Vatican Archives and making cause for
Pope Leo XIII (1878 - 1903) to create the Restoration Laboratory in order to
restore many precious works. Today, many of the libraries treasures are stored
in a large underground room, and new reading rooms have been constructed.
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The
Swiss Guard |
Vatican Gardens
Surrounding the palace complex, a marvelous network of gardens and sculptures,
called the Vatican
Gardens, fill the space between the palace and the outer wall surrounding
the Holy City. Apart from the occasional addition of new plants (totaling around
7,000 by the year 2000), the 24.3 hectares (60 acres) of gardens have been largely
unaltered since the 16th century, maintaining their complex design. The labyrinth
of hedges and sculptures are divided into Old and New gardens, with origins
dating back to the construction of the Leonine Walls in the 9th century. Pope
Nicholas II (1058 - 1061) built new protective walls in 1279, which were replaced
during the construction efforts of the 1500s. Later, Nicholas V (1447 - 1455)
commissioned a redesign and developed the ceremonial gardens, as well as a private
garden for the enjoyment of the pope and his guests. The gardens are lined with
many sculptures and fountains that draw water from Lake Bracciano through an
aqueduct dating back to the time of Emperor Trajan in the first century AD.
Found on the
edge of the garden grounds, directly behind the basilica, is the
oldest church in the city state, dating back to the 6th century.
The Saint
Stephen of the Abyssinians Church is said to be the place
where Charlemange worshipped, and there is a tomb of a monk who reportedly
lived to the age of 107, buried in 1740. The grounds also surround
the Vatican
Mosaic Studio, which provides the stones and glass for the
many mosaics in St. Peter's. Some 20,000 different coloured tints
are kept in the studio and mosaic stones and reproductions of many
paintings can be purchased here as souvenirs.
Barracks of
the Army of Swiss Guards
Opposite the Vatican Gardens, the Barracks
of the Guard are home to the Papal Gendarmes or Army of the Swiss Guards,
originally a trained infantry unit who fought for various European powers throughout
the centuries. The barracks, completed in 1497, date to the rule of Pope Sixtus
IV (1471 - 1484) to defend against invasion by Charles VIII, King of France.
The guards didn't become citizens of the city state until 1505, by order of
Pope Julius II (1503 - 1513). Today, they protect the pope and the Vatican alone
and are present during all of the popes public appearances. Limited in number
to 100 guards, the guards are fully trained in modern military fighting and
weaponry, though their traditional 15th century pike is never far from hand.
Enlisted men must be Roman Catholics of Swiss descent, with a background in
the Swiss military, though their official language is German. New guards are
sworn in at the San Damaso Courtyard on May 6, the anniversary of the 1527 sack
of Rome, when 200 guards defended the Holy City against an army of 22,000. Swiss
Guards are distinguished by their Renaissance revival uniform of blue, red,
orange and yellow.
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| The
altar above Saint Peter's Tomb. |
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Tomb of St.
Peter
Not to be missed is the Tomb
of St. Peter. Discovered in the mid 20th century, when work
on Constantine's Wall revealed a small recess lined with marble,
the final resting place of the first Roman Pontiff has been untouched
since the time of Constantine (288-337). The passage to the tomb
runs directly through the remains of Constantine's original basilica,
leading to a major necropolis lined with frescoed walls and marbled
floors. Tours must be arranged in advance, through the Excavation
Office (Ufficio Scavi).
TRANSPORTATION
& ORIENTATION
There are no
shortages of ways to get to the Vatican City. Found just off the
west bank of the Tiber River, tourists can bus, cab or walk to St.
Peter's Square, which sits at the end of Via Della Conciliazione.
Via Della Conciliazione is the most direct route for those on foot.
It runs from the Tiber River, directly in front of Castel Saint Angelo,
to the entrance of St. Peter's Square. The city bus can be crowded,
but offers inexpensive travel from Termini station, via bus 64 or
the express route 40. The Vatican is no longer accessible by passenger
train, but the local subway (line A) does pass close by, with stops
at the Ottaviano-S.Pietro and Cipro-Musei Vaticani stations. Only
the pope and his special guests (such as the President of the United
States of America) get to use the heliport.
