Vatican City - Discovering the City State

	A view of Vatican City.

There is a lot of history to the Vatican City, one of the best known spiritual centres in the entire world, and it is just so for many reasons. It is almost 2,000 years old, the home of the Pope, and the centre of the Catholic Church. It is also its own sovereign state. It has survived time, war, and countless visitors on pilgrimages and sightseeing tours. The smallest independent state in the world (less than one half a square kilometre or about one-third of a square mile and home to about 900 people) even has its own website.

HISTORY

The story of the Vatican begins in the first century, when Caligula Caesar began construction of the Circus of Nero (later to be finished by Emperor Nero) in an area known as Ager Vaticanus, near the Tiber River. At that time, the area lay outside the city of Rome, and was the site of many a spectacle, including the first state organized martyrdom of Christians in the first century. It is commonly believed that it is here that St. Peter (the apostle who proclaimed Christ was the Messiah and Son of God) was martyred. A monument was placed over his tomb, and Pope Anacletus (77 - 88) built a small shrine on the very same site. In 312, Emperor Constantine became the first Christian ruler of Rome, and in 324, commissioned St. Peter's Basilica on the grounds where the shrine of Anacletus stood. Until the new church was consecrated, this area was largely unpopulated, though widely considered sacred.

The Vatican, which takes its name from Mons Vaticanus (Vatican Hill), is home to the Pope, leader of the Catholic faith. Over the centuries, many have been chosen to hold this seat, and countless tales of honour and intrigue have been born within the Vatican walls. There is even a legend of a woman becoming pope (Pope Joan) in the 9th century. It is said the highly educated Englishman John of Mainz (855-857) was actually a woman in disguise. She was revealed when she was discovered to be pregnant, and died shortly after giving birth. The Catholic Church has never recognized these rumours, likely fabricated by chronicler Martin of Troppau.

Vatican City is administered by the Holy See, which has aided and observed the Vatican in both size and influence. But it wasn't until the rule of Pope Symmachus (498 - 514) that the Vatican became the residence of future popes. Prior to Pope Symmachus, the Vatican was only a secondary residence, the main home being the Palace of San Giovanni in Laterano, whose adjoining basilica is the oldest of the five ancient basilicas found around Rome. The palace is the former home of the Lateranus family, advisers for the leaders of the Empire. Constantine took the palace for the Church and a residence for the popes early in the 4th century.

In 846, the city was enclosed in a protective wall which surrounded the entire grounds of the Vatican City. Known as the Leonine Walls, they were erected by Pope Leo (440 - 461) to defend against the Saracen invasion of Europe.

Between 1145 and 1153, Eugenius III served in the position of Pope, even though he was only abbot of a small monastery near Rome at the time of his election.Constant threats against the authority of the church and an atmosphere of consistent violence led him to build a new and stronger fortified palace, later enlarged by Innocent III (1198 - 1216). After his death in 1153, Pope Eugenius III was buried in the Vatican, and his tomb is believed to have remarkable restorative and healing power.

In 1277, a walled passageway was built, linking the palace with Castel Saint Angelo, to be used as an escape route for the papacy during the many invasions of Rome. So turbulent was this era, that between 1309 and 1378, the papacy was driven to leave the Holy City, taking up permanent residence in the Papal State of Avignon, France, where recently elected Pope Clement V (1305 - 1314) had a friend in King Philip IV. The papacy would remain in exile until Pope Gregory XI (1370 - 1378) returned it to Italy. Once again, the pope would live at the Vatican, but the power of the church was marred by political conflict between the original home of the papacy and France (their home in exile) adding pressure to the election of future popes.

	Maderno's fountain outside the basilica.

By the mid-15th century, St. Peter's Basilica was in poor states, and under the leadership of Pope Nicholas V (1447 - 1455) underwent extensive renovations. Not only was the basilica restored, in 1451 it was also expanded. Pope Nicholas V completely tore down some sections to include the Cortile Dei Pappagalli, and make more room for the great collection that is now the Vatican Library. By the year 2000, records estimate the number of collected volumes totaled almost two million works, with another 6,000 being added each year, mostly by donation. Rebuilding of the Vatican was pre-empted by the death of Nicholas V in 1455, and would not begin again until 1506.

Sixtus IV (1471 - 1484) commissioned many great works by popular artists of the day, now displayed throughout the public areas of the Vatican Museums.

Pope Innocent VIII (1484 - 1492) ordered architect and painter Donato Bramante to undertake the renovation of Villa Belvedere into an art gallery. It is now home to many sculptures collected by subsequent Pope Julius II. Bramante also added a spiral staircase large and wide enough for horses to ascend with mounted riders, and connected the pavilion to the Sistine Chapel and Vatican Palace.

The 16th century saw the Vatican install its own millitary, a unit of which was the still-present Swiss Guards, to ward off continuing threat of foreign invasion. To this day, the guard still employs its traditional weapon, a 15th century pike, and wears a recognizeable Renaissance revival uniform (not designed by Michelangelo, contrary to popular opinion). These highly trained soldiers have a range of duties, from guarding the entrances to the Apostolic Palace to choir to soccer matches against other Vatican teams such as the Vatican Security Corps.

1508 brought the master Michelangelo to the Eternal City, painting many famous frescoes, including the Sistine Chapel ceiling (shortly after completing the famous sculpture of David in Florence). In 1546, the legendary artist became chief architect to St. Peter's Basilica, but only lived long enough to see it finished as far as the base of the dome he designed. The dome was finally completed in 1590 by Giacomo Della Porta.

A 1585 modification would change visitors first impression of St. Peter's forever, when the ancient and mysterious obelisk, was moved to the centre of St. Peter's Square and topped with a large cross, said to contain a fragment of the True Cross (the cross of the crucifixtion), found by St. Helena, mother of Emperor Constantine.

	The ancient obelisk.

The last major restorations and construction on St. Peter's Basilica were finally completed during the 17th century, under the direction of Pontiff Paul V.

The papacy would lose its hard-won political power again in 1798, when the city of Rome fell under the rule of Napoleon. Pope Pius VI (1775 - 1799) would lead the church from France until 1815, when Italy divided under the Congress of Vienna.

The Italian unification of 1861 brought the Papal States (an area of central Italy controlled by the Vatican) under the rule of the United Kingdom of Italy. Pope Pius IX retired within the walls of the Vatican as protest against a secular government, and from this time on, the Vatican City would rule only the city state itself.

In 1870, Rome was annexed during the unification of Italy, and became the nation's capital, furthering the conflict between the so called "prisoner" popes and the Italian government. Resolution was reached in 1929, when Mussolini signed the Lateran Treaty with Pius XI (1922 - 1939), granting the papacy full sovereignty over the city, while maintaining public services and protection provided by Italy. In total, three treaties were signed on Feb. 11, 1929, one of which also made Roman Catholicism the official religion of Italy.

The 20th century brought many changes to the Vatican, including the addition of new art galleries in 1932 and 1973.

Toward the middle of the 20th century, a remarkable discovery was made beneath the altar dedicated to St. Peter (located under the High Altar of the basilica) in the form of a burial chamber in which a skeleton had been interred with special honours. On Dec. 23, 1950, Pope Pius XII (1939 - 1958) told the world that the remains of St. Peter himself had been found. The popular theory is that after his crucifixion, during which St. Peter was hung upside down by request, his feet were cut off to remove him from the cross. The remains found under the church are missing its feet and are believed to be of the same age as St. Peter at the time of crucifixion. There was even a piece of plaster found with the remains that read "Peter is within".

The year 2000 brought a new museum entrance and a staircase constructed by Michelangelo Simonetti in late 18th century became an exit (it was formerly an entrance).

Today, the Vatican City boasts a non-commercial economy, based primarily around annual contributions from Roman Catholics (known as Peter's Pence), however there is also considerable income derived from tourist mementoes, admission fees to the various exhibits and museums, and the sale of postage stamps (it has become quite popular to mail post cards from the Vatican for the unique postage and stamps), and over the years the Holy See has acquired many investments and real estate.

CLIMATE

The Vatican's weather is Rome's weather. The spring is usually somewhat wet, with temperatures settling around 18ºC (around 65ºF). The benefit of spring is that the countryside is just beginning to bloom and the lines for attractions are short.

The summer months (between May and September) are hot, with temperatures averaging between 25ºC and 35ºC (between 80°F and 90°F). Not surprisingly, this is the height of tourist season and the cities are crowded. Late in the season, warm summer winds can raise the index to almost 40ºC (around 104ºF).

Fall is often the best time to visit the Vatican, as the days have plenty of sun but are not too hot, and tourist attractions are less crowded. This pleasant weather continues through the end of November, which lends itself well to sightseeing, and much of the surrounding region is in bloom.

As the winter months set in, rain usually follows, but there are many sunny days.

SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS

Of the many things to see in the Vatican City (See the map, right click to zoom in), perhaps the most well known are the Sistine Chapel (with its famous Michelangelo frescoed ceiling), and St. Peter's Basilica, the great domed church sometimes thought to be the entirety of the Vatican, but there is much more to the City State than what is popularly known. There are the ruins of the legendary wall that borders the city, art galleries, an Ethiopian Seminary, a historic civil administration building, a post office, a few chapels, museums, monuments and towers. And, of course, there is St. Peter's Square, through which all who wish to enter must pass.

	A slow day at St. Peter's Square.

St. Peter's Square and Basilica
St. Peter's Square (Piazza San Pietro) was laid out in the mid-17th century (1656 - 1667) by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Located in front of St. Peter's Basilica, the square was constructed as a public location for the faithful to worship. In the very centre of the square is an Egyptian obelisk, rising 40 m (131 ft.), and dating back to the 13th century BC. The obelisk was brought to Rome from Heliopolis (in ancient Egypt) by Emperor Caligula in 37 AD, and was originally a focal point for the Circus of Nero, not far from the basilica.

The obelisk once sported a bronze globe reputedly holding the ashes of Julius Caesar, which were moved to the Capitoline Museums when the obelisk came to its present home in the square, and the newly-added cross at the top is said to contain a fragment of the True Cross. To the north of the obelisk is Carlo Maderno's fountain crafted in 1611-12. A second fountain, found on the south side, was designed by Bernini in 1675 to match the first, framing the entrance to St. Peter's Basilica.

St. Peter's Basilica started construction early in the 4th century by the Christian Emperor Constantine on the burial site of St. Peter (found beneath the High Altar of the current basilica), who is considered the first pope. Since then, many popes have been buried in and around the church. Sporting the largest dome in the world, and with room for more than 60,000 worshippers, it is also the largest church in the world. The current building was constructed over a period of about 120 years, beginning in 1506. Michelangelo designed the world renowned dome after Florence's Duomo, as well as much of the main church, and would go on to paint many revered scenes within, plus find time to sculpt a few of the masterpieces found here, most notably the Pietà.

Michelangelo's Pietà, carved between 1498 - 1499, is currently protected by a sheet of bullet-proof glass after it was attacked in 1972 by sledgehammer-wielding tourist during a Sunday mass, breaking her arm, taking a chunk out of her nose and chipping her eyelid. Originally sculpted as the funeral monument for the French cardinal Jean De Billheres, the Pietà was moved to its current home in St. Peter's Basilica in the 18th century. The masterwork depicts the body of Christ in the arms of his mother, and is truly one of a kind. There is much debate over the representation of the Virgin Mother, in that she is presented as being very young—younger, in fact, than the body of Christ she holds.

Many other wonders can be found within the walls of St. Peter's. There are monuments to various popes, saints and famous historical figures leading to the altar of St. Sebastian. Of the more impressive works is Arnolfo di Cambio's 13th century statue of St. Peter Enthroned, famous for its feet being worn down from centuries of visitors rubbing and kissing them, and a 30-m (90-ft.) tall baldachin (canopy) designed by Bernini resting above the main altar (above the tomb of St. Peter), the bronze for which is said to have come from the Pantheon (circa 27 BC) itself. But at the top of the list for worshippers are the holy relics. Most importantly among these relics, the basilica is in possession of what are believed to be the last remaining fragments of the True Cross, on which Christ was crucified. These fragments are only on display during Holy Week (the week preceding Easter Sunday).

Without fail, visitors should experience the view from Michelangelo's famous dome, measuring 42.3 m (138.8 ft.) in diameter (on the inside), and is 120 m (393.7 ft.) above the floor (totalling 136.57 m or 448.5 ft. from the floor to the top of the cross adorning the dome). From its overwhelming size to its breathtaking views, the dome of St. Peter's represents architectural genius at its finest. In the early 1700s, however, the dome began to crack, so four rings were installed to prevent further deterioration. The rings can be viewed when climbing the spiral stairs to the observation level. As a masterpiece, the dome is almost as famous as the Sistine Chapel.

	The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.

Sistine Chapel
Construction of the Sistine Chapel began in 1368, with major restorative work undertaken in the late 15th century. The most popular artists of the Renaissance worked on creating the majesty of Cappella Sistina, but the best known are without doubt the frescoes of Michelangelo. In 1999, 20 years of official efforts to restore the precious paintings were completed, employing a new solvent to clean away centuries of pollution and build up. A special air-filtration system was also installed so the restoration efforts would last longer. The system removes much of the pollution brought into the chapel by millions of visitors and local traffic. The result is deep and vibrant colour not seen since Michelangelo completed his work.

The Sistine Chapel is also the place where new popes are elected. Contained within the chapel, the Room of Tears is where the newly elected pontiff contemplates the nature of his new position, chooses his papal name, and dons his cassock for the first time. Three holy robes are hung in the room, one small, one medium and one large, and the new pope wears the one that fits best. The door to the Room of Tears can be seen upon touring the chapel.

Vatican Palace
Continually remodeled and developed by Catholic leaders over many centuries, the various buildings that make up the Vatican Palace were connected in the 16th century under the direction of Pope Julius II (1503 - 1513). The most notable aspect of the palace complex may be the varied architectural styles employed by different popes at different times. The more than 1,000 rooms that make up the Palace include not only the papal apartments, where the pope actually lives, but also the government offices for the Catholic Church, many chapels (including the famous Sistine Chapel), the Vatican Library and the Vatican Museums.

Vatican Museums
The Vatican Museums consist of 10 museums, making it a collection that can take days to view. Over the centuries, successive popes have grown increasingly interested in collecting rare works of art, making the collection one of, if not the largest and richest collection in the world. State of the art security and round-the-clock staff, including about one hundred plain clothes security officers wandering around as tourists, have meant that this collection has never had a theft. For visitors, the museum experience is unique from the start. Upon entering the Viale Vaticano, one can choose either a ride up an elevator or take a truly unusual double spiral staircase (one set of stairs goes up, the other goes down) leading to a collection of mosaics on Vatican Hill. Continuing on, visitors can view the sarcophagi of Constantine's mother Constanza and his daughter, Saint Helena. Keep walking and guests come upon one of the most impressive Egyptian exhibits in all of Europe, ancient manuscripts and sculptures, and then, eventually, find their way to the Sistine Chapel.

Vatican Treasury
Though not commonly considered part of the museums, the Vatican Treasury itself can be toured, and many of its chalices, reliquaries, and artefacts can be seen. Over the centuries, the treasury has grown immensely because of donations from popes, cardinals, emperors, kings and countless worshipers. Many artefacts date as far back as the 4th century rule of Constantine.

Vatican Library
The Vatican Library's collection began with writings and documents that belonged to, and were treasured by early popes, and the collection expanded under the papacy of Nicholas V (1447-55). During this time, some 1,500 works were gathered from all corners of Europe and the east, bringing the total number of volumes to over 1,800. Over the centuries, the library collection has increased considerably, and is now divided into various sections, including the Latin and Greek Libraries, the Secret Library (for precious manuscripts not generally accessible by the public), and the Pontifical Library (of registries and archives). During the rule of Pope Paul V (1605 - 1621) in the 17th century, the library collection was increased and again restructured. Archival documents were removed from the site all together, creating the Secret Vatican Archives and making cause for Pope Leo XIII (1878 - 1903) to create the Restoration Laboratory in order to restore many precious works. Today, many of the libraries treasures are stored in a large underground room, and new reading rooms have been constructed.

	The Swiss Guard

Vatican Gardens
Surrounding the palace complex, a marvelous network of gardens and sculptures, called the Vatican Gardens, fill the space between the palace and the outer wall surrounding the Holy City. Apart from the occasional addition of new plants (totaling around 7,000 by the year 2000), the 24.3 hectares (60 acres) of gardens have been largely unaltered since the 16th century, maintaining their complex design. The labyrinth of hedges and sculptures are divided into Old and New gardens, with origins dating back to the construction of the Leonine Walls in the 9th century. Pope Nicholas II (1058 - 1061) built new protective walls in 1279, which were replaced during the construction efforts of the 1500s. Later, Nicholas V (1447 - 1455) commissioned a redesign and developed the ceremonial gardens, as well as a private garden for the enjoyment of the pope and his guests. The gardens are lined with many sculptures and fountains that draw water from Lake Bracciano through an aqueduct dating back to the time of Emperor Trajan in the first century AD.

Found on the edge of the garden grounds, directly behind the basilica, is the oldest church in the city state, dating back to the 6th century. The Saint Stephen of the Abyssinians Church is said to be the place where Charlemange worshipped, and there is a tomb of a monk who reportedly lived to the age of 107, buried in 1740. The grounds also surround the Vatican Mosaic Studio, which provides the stones and glass for the many mosaics in St. Peter's. Some 20,000 different coloured tints are kept in the studio and mosaic stones and reproductions of many paintings can be purchased here as souvenirs.

Barracks of the Army of Swiss Guards
Opposite the Vatican Gardens, the Barracks of the Guard are home to the Papal Gendarmes or Army of the Swiss Guards, originally a trained infantry unit who fought for various European powers throughout the centuries. The barracks, completed in 1497, date to the rule of Pope Sixtus IV (1471 - 1484) to defend against invasion by Charles VIII, King of France. The guards didn't become citizens of the city state until 1505, by order of Pope Julius II (1503 - 1513). Today, they protect the pope and the Vatican alone and are present during all of the popes public appearances. Limited in number to 100 guards, the guards are fully trained in modern military fighting and weaponry, though their traditional 15th century pike is never far from hand. Enlisted men must be Roman Catholics of Swiss descent, with a background in the Swiss military, though their official language is German. New guards are sworn in at the San Damaso Courtyard on May 6, the anniversary of the 1527 sack of Rome, when 200 guards defended the Holy City against an army of 22,000. Swiss Guards are distinguished by their Renaissance revival uniform of blue, red, orange and yellow.

The altar above Saint Peter's Tomb.

Tomb of St. Peter
Not to be missed is the Tomb of St. Peter. Discovered in the mid 20th century, when work on Constantine's Wall revealed a small recess lined with marble, the final resting place of the first Roman Pontiff has been untouched since the time of Constantine (288-337). The passage to the tomb runs directly through the remains of Constantine's original basilica, leading to a major necropolis lined with frescoed walls and marbled floors. Tours must be arranged in advance, through the Excavation Office (Ufficio Scavi).

TRANSPORTATION & ORIENTATION

There are no shortages of ways to get to the Vatican City. Found just off the west bank of the Tiber River, tourists can bus, cab or walk to St. Peter's Square, which sits at the end of Via Della Conciliazione. Via Della Conciliazione is the most direct route for those on foot. It runs from the Tiber River, directly in front of Castel Saint Angelo, to the entrance of St. Peter's Square. The city bus can be crowded, but offers inexpensive travel from Termini station, via bus 64 or the express route 40. The Vatican is no longer accessible by passenger train, but the local subway (line A) does pass close by, with stops at the Ottaviano-S.Pietro and Cipro-Musei Vaticani stations. Only the pope and his special guests (such as the President of the United States of America) get to use the heliport.